Sunday, 27 November 2022

Temples of Ankgor

 


The Angkorian empire lasted from the 9th to the 15th Centuries. The empires capital for much of this time was a few miles north of Siem Reap. As the empire went into decline, the whole area was gradually abandoned and finally over taken by the jungle. During the 19th century colonial times, French historians started to rediscover the lost cities and temples. Some restoration work started in the 1960’s, but in 1992 the area became a UNESCO World Heritage site, attracting increased funding from countries around the world. The area is now protected and further restoration is underway. Hollywood played its part to promote the area with filming of the Lara Croft Tomb Raider in 2001. The Cambodian government now understand its value to attract tourism. Pre Covid, thousands of people would visit each week. Post Covid, the number of visitors is currently around a third, which meant our timing to visit was perfect. 

Angkor Wat is one of the most famous temples in the region. We were advised that sunrise is the best time to visit, which meant a 5am start. Our guide helped us purchase tickets and arranged for us to enter from the quieter rear entrance. It was still dark as we walked a path through the forest to the temple. He shone a touch to spot any Python or Cobra snakes on their night time crossing, fortunately there were none to be seen. It was just becoming light as we reached the temple and it is stunning. It was difficult to comprehend that this was lost to the jungle for 500 years.


Even though we arrived at 5:30am, there must have been at least 1000 people there to watch the sun rise. 

We left Angkor Wat to visit Angkor Thom, which was built about 100 years after Angkor Wat. This was the walled capitial city and in many ways more impressive, but less preserved.

The longer we travel through Asia, the more we understand that health and safety standards are different here when compared to Europe and the US. You could argue that they have kept the responsibility for making decisions with the individual and not the state. No doubt cost is the real reason. The safety around the Angkor temples was no different. Steep steps up the top of the monuments which are not good for anyone with vertigo. But without them you would not be able to see the full glory of these constructions. 

Janice on the steps in Baphuon Temple

The whole of the Angkor Thom City is around nine square kilometres and has multiple temple sites. All impressive. The Angkorians spent decades building these temples, cutting and shaping the stone. Lava stone, which is less attractive for strength and foundation. Sandstone to finish and carve. They were influenced by both Buddhism and Hinduism. The style reflecting which religion. Elephants were often carved. The photo below is from the Temple of the Lepa King. 

Temple of the Lepa King in Angkor Them


The buildings were amazing, but what added to the area is the way that nature has developed around the sites. Trees, which are hundreds of years old, growing on and in the ruins. The Spung tree, which grows over 100 metres high, develops its trunk and roots around the walls and temples.


 
The temperature during the day was above 30 degrees and very humid. This is a tropical area, so we should not have been surprised when the heavens opened and it started to poor. We managed to hide in a temple, eventually deciding to make a dash for our car, but got soaked. We drove 500 metres down the road to find it had not rained and the sun shining. No wonder everything grows so well here. Our guide Sing So waiting for break from the rain.


After lunch and time to dry we finished the day on a high, with a tour of the Temple of Ta Prohm, which was the site used in the Lara Croft Tomb Raider film. It was lost to the jungle for hundreds of years. The trees have grown on and around it, which is why it created a perfect film setting. Both the Spung and Giant Fig trees have grown here. The Giant Fig tree is the one in the famous film setting in the picture below. 

Tomb Raider film setting

But the Spung tree is equally impressive, with this one dominating the Ta Prohm temple. 

Spung Tree Ta Prohm.

And this ended our day, tired and hungry from our long day exploring these amazing temples. It’s time to find out what goes on in Pub Street. Good night Cambodia. 






 




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